Ray Abercromby Wine Dinner
Establishment Restaurant, Manchester
1st March 2005
1998 Pirie, Tasmania
Full and rich on the nose: quite biscuitty with some peach kernels. Full and round with a good gentle mousse on the palate. Quite a fruity style. Very Good.
2003 Riesling, Mitchell Watervale, Clare
A waxy, citrussy nose thatís slightly oiled and has a touch of sherbert too. Bright and clean on the attack. Very nice weight. Very good length.
Develops a real citrussy note on the finish. Very Good.
A lovely perfumed nose. Very, very full and really quite overripe and over-bearing. Rich and very lingering on the finish. But the overall impression is of a wine with an excess of weight and body without any real backbone behind it. It was interesting to try the wine with a bit of salt, which helped balance the wine: I think it would be a good wine for smoked salmon. Good.
1975 Ch. Magdelaine en magnum
This is not a wine that looks the thirty years old that it is. The nose is dominated by leather with blackberry and a hint of leafiness. On the attack this is immediately showing all signs of a mature, old claret: very immediate sweet fruit with an underbelly of softened tannins, giving the impression of a rounded, soft, suede-textured wine. Very Good Indeed.
2001 Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, decanted
around two hours earlier.
A really good burgundian pinot noir nose with lots of medicinal notes, especially cloves: thereís definitely an air of dentistís surgery about this. Another glass from another bottle wasnít quite as medicinal, but rather was a touch bretty-stinky. Eventually, the medicinal notes start to blow off a touch, and thereís more burgundian fruit coming through on the nose. A really lovely attack: ripe, clean, fresh fruit. Really concentrated and a lovely wine. Excellent balance followed by massive length. With more time, itís evolving all the time in the glass, taking on smoky/tobacco notes after a while. But the paracetamol and oil of cloves mixture never quite goes away. This is a stunning wine: very interesting indeed. Excellent.
1998 Clos de Bourg, MoŽlleux, HuŽt
Quite an interesting nose, if a bit closed. Slight stinkiness too, which blows off to reveal several layers of honey. Very fresh on the attack and then with a good weight of restrained fruit on the palate. Rather high acidity. And a bit unbalanced overall. Far, far too young: in Loire and HuŽt terms, this is still suffering shock from bottling. Good.
Not included in the above, but drunk later that
1983 Cabernet Boschť (Cabernet Sauvignon), Freemark Abbey, Napa Valley, 12.9%
Initially rather stinky, but that blows off. Quite a concentrated sweet black fruit nose. Remarkable freshness on the attack. Sweet fruit on the palate, with grainy tannins. Very dry on the finish. Very long, but not over-attractive (long) after.
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Last updated: 17 March 2006