Bordeaux Tasting and Dinner
Manchester
21st November 2008
A group
of wine enthusiasts met at Manchester's Market restaurant again
for this tasting and dinner. I thought the food was a bit better
overall this
time; well at least mine was. There's a pleasing simplicity to the
food, and the kitchen seems to be working within its competences.
I
particularly liked my plate of pig: a huge chunk of very lean and meaty
belly pork with some very good crackling, some delicious braised cheek
with a real depth of flavour to the braising liquor. The final piggy
element was roast fillet that fell just short of being excellent by
being very slightly overcooked. Very good mash and root vegetable
purée. I thought it was good value at about £40 for three and a half
courses (we shared a number of cheese plates in pairs), plus another
fiver corkage.
Our aperitif, was a little off-topic, but who's going to complain about a glass of Francis Boulard's 2000 Millésimé, Champagne Raymond Boulard?
This
had a lovely evolved nose with nice pear fruit. Clean and rich on the
palate, this was showing well, and very impressive. 91/100
2002 Château Carbonnieux Blanc, AC Pessac-Léognan, 12.5%
Interesting
nose - quite grassy with green melon peelings. Round and open with
quite a milky mouthfeel. There's good acidity on the finish. Quite
green overall. 86/100
1988 Château La Louvière Blanc, AC Pessac-Léognan, 12.5%
A
bit of a curious nose, that's not wholly attractive to me, with some
piney-resin notes. It's nice on the palate though, showing its age, and
carrying it very well. There's a very slight hint of maderisation, but
that's not unattractive. The finish is a bit weird, with green fruit
and toffee. 87/100
1995 Château Calon-Ségur, AC St. Estèphe, 12.5%
An
attractive mature nose. Slightly foxy black fruits with an air of green
leafiness. Fairly closed and lean on the palate. Firm tannins on the
finish. 87/100
1988 Château Calon-Ségur, AC St. Estèphe, 12.5%
Much
more open on the nose than the 1995 with some concentrated blackcurrant
fruit. Open and minty on the palate, with much more of a hedonistic
feel than the 1995. Good integrated structure. 91/100
1996 Réserve de la Comtesse, AC Pauillac, 13%
Lovely
nose with black and red fruits, a nice meatiness and pencil wood. Riper
and readier than maybe it should be, but I find it very attractive and
very impressive. 93/100
1998 Réserve de la Comtesse, AC Pauillac, 12.5%
There
is no family resemblance to the 1996 on the nose at all. This is much
more floral and scented. On the palate, it's much leaner and more
closed. Much less giving. 86/100
1995 Château Malescot St Exupery, AC Margaux, 12.5%
There's
tobacco and cigarette smoke on the nose. Then some deep black fruit.
Not as impressive on the palate as on the nose. It feels a touch simple
on the palate, though there are a nice balance and a good structure.
But it's a bit unsatisfying. Some sour fruit on the finish, adds a bit
of interest, but no further pleasure. 86/100
1989 Château Langoa Barton, AC Saint Julien
Mushroomy
and vegetal on the nose with hints of black fruit. Open and attractive
palate. Very balanced with huge length. Very fine after. With time,
this reveals itself to be a good, classic St Julien. 90/100
1988 Château de Fieuzal, AC Pessac-Léognan, 12.5%
Quite
a minty, volatile-her-oil nose that doesn't really augur that well.
Fairly high-toned on the palate and quite lifted. Lacking fruit and
feeling a bit dried out. Distinctly unimpressive. 80/100
1998 Château La Vieille Cure, AC Fronsac
The
nose is rich, with chocolatey black plummy fruit. Blind, I'd put this
in Australia, maybe a Margaret River Bordeaux blend. Very pleasant,
gently caressing palate. Very good structure and balance. There's a
certain rawness and hardness, especially on the finish. 91/100
1999 Château Monbousquet, St Emilion Grand Cru, 13.5%
A
lovely black-hedgerow fruit nose that's very deep with rich chocolatey
notes, though it's also a touch spirity. Overtones of mincemeat are
evident, once somebody mentions it. Velvety, warm palate. It feels
quite modern in style: very attractive and approachable, but with quite
drying tannins on the finish. There's very ripe fruit, but overall it
feels fairly restrained. A very interesting wine that is probably going
to improve. 91/100
After an hour or so, it hadn't improved at all.
1996 Château L'Evangile, AC Pomerol, 13%
High
toned and volatile on the nose, the volatility dominating completely,
with just the barest hint of fruit trying to fight through. There's
definitely a life on the palate too, and again the volatility is
utterly dominant. Faulty.
1983 Château Larmande, AC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé, no alcohol content shown
Earthy
hedgerows and sous-bois on the nose: it's a touch lifted, but this time
in a nice way. Very pleasant palate. It feels much younger than 25
years old. Pleasant, easy drinking. But it lacks complexity and any
great interest. 87/100
1985 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière, AC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
The
nose has mature, evolved, herbal black fruits. Very attractive attack,
but it quickly falls away to very little. Very, very short. Remarkably,
and worryingly little to it. 84/100
1971 Château La Tour Capet, AC Saint-Emilion Grand Cru
A
very spongy cork. The nose is very cooked with beefy, Oxo overtones.
Old, not quite dead, but on the way to the funeral. After a few minutes
in the glass, it actually improved, and it's nowhere near as bad as I
was expecting, given its very dodgy provenance. It's still drinkable
and doesn't taste like madeira. 82/100
Château Guiraud, 1er Cru Sauternes, 14.5%
Very in your face, orangey-marmelade nose. Very sweet and very direct. Lacks elegance. 84/100
1988 Château Coutet, AC Barsac, 13.5%
An
elegant, floral nose. Light and fragrant on the palate. This has much
better balance that the Guiraud. If Guiraud is golden syrup, this is a
single estate, pure cane syrup. 91/100
Overall, there was nothing here to convert a Bordeaux sceptic.
Later, post-offline:
2002 Escherndorfer Lump Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Horst Sauer, Franken
Absolutely
marvellous. There's huge acidity, that's not quite obvious enough to
start hurting your teeth. There is a full and intense sweetness, but
there's so much acidity that you scarcely notice it.
The balance and purity is astoundingly good. 95/100
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Last updated: 8 December 2008