The wines of Michel & Stéphane Ogier, Rhône
A seminar presented by Zubair Mohammed of Raeburn Fine Wines in Edinburgh.
7th March 2009

In my state of blissful ignorance of Ogier, I didn't realise I was so supposed to be wetting myself about the prospect of the Belle Hélène, but - like all the wines - it delivered.

2007 Viognier “La Rosine”, VdP de Collines des Rhodaniennes (£13)
This has rather nice tropical fruits on the nose, which shows remarkable restraint, avoiding the blowsiness of many viogniers. Very good restraint on the palate too: there's an unusual delicacy to this which helps make it rather delicious. 90/100

2001 "La Rosine", VdP de Collines des Rhodaniennes (£13)
The nose has pleasant gamey fruit with some farmyard stink and a bit of a cocoa husk character. It's light and uncomplicated on the palate. Easy and clean with a real savouriness. Nice elegance. 89/100
When Zubair said it was 100% syrah, I could resist a bit of on-table blending, adding a few drops of the viognier - probably no more than 1% or 2% and it really improved it I thought.

2005 Côte Rôtie Reserve du Domaine (£33)
A very deep, almost inky colour. Very deep, brooding black fruits dominate the nose, which feels a touch closed. Very rich attack - very rounded with a super tannic structure from good ripe tannins. A very clean wine indeed with great focus. It really promises well for the future. 91-94/100

2004 “L’ame Soeur” Terres de Seyssuel VdP Collines des Rhodaniennes (£17)
A hugely attractive nose with lovely sweet ripe fruit and an elegant floral character. Young, fresh attack. Good structure, feeling already fairly integrated. Quite a light fragrant character. Not the most convincing of this set of Ogier wines for me, and as such it looks a bit pricey to me. 88/100

2004 Côte Rôtie Reserve du Domaine (£32)
Deep, brooding, meaty black fruits dominate the nose, though there is just a little bit of a floral life in there too. Very fine palate with some really nice, elegant red and black fruit. There's a firm tannic structure which lends a lovely spice on the finish. Still young, but very seductive. 92-94/100

2004 Côte Rôtie “Belle Hélène” (£96)
Very deep black fruits on the nose, with gorgeous chocolate violet creams an coffee notes. It's big and powerful on the palate, yet somehow still seems to have an elegance. Is it the name and some sort of auto-suggestion, but is there a taste of pear on the finish? Great finesse. 93/100

2001 Côte Rôtie “Les Embruns” (£47)
A much simpler nose than the Belle Hélène which overall rather dominates one's impression of the Embruns. A lovely open, wide palate. Very elegant. There's a really fine tannic structure, but overall it feels very integrated. But still needs time. 91/100

I had had the red La Rosine before, and for completeness include those notes again here:

2002 Syrah La Rosine, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhôdaniennes, Michel & Stéphane Ogier
This has a sweet black fruit nose and very vibrant fruit on the palate. Very young, very simple, very light tannins. Good.
On its own a rather unexceptional, very simple wine, but it worked exceedingly well with the Ledbury's venison dish and all its sweet flavours (Fillet of Venison, slow roasted in pepper and juniper with beetroot, parsnip and quince )  84/100

2002 Syrah La Rosine, Vin de Pays des Collines Rhôdaniennes, Michel & Stéphane Ogier
A young blackberry-mulberry nose. Very young flavours with lots of bright berry fruit. Youngish, simple flavours. Very satisfying wine. Good/Very Good. 86/100


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Last updated: 30 December 2008