P.I.G. TASTING 2006 Northcote Manor
25th September 2006)
PIG
stands for Portugal-Italy-Greece, the three main areas covered
by the three wine importers/merchants who have banded together
to show their wines off.
Raymond Reynolds Ltd Putting the P in PIG.
N.V. Luis Pato Bairrada
Espumante Maria Gomes - Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada
Fragrant and fresh on the nose. Decent refreshing stuff with
individuality and character. (88 pts.)
2005 Quinta dos Roques
Dão Quinta do Correio - Portugal, Beiras, Dão
Quite an unusual nose: a bit muddy, but with creamy, sweet
pear notes. Fairly easy on the palate. Nice character. A bit
unusual. Nice touch of acidity too. Very Good+ (87
pts.)
2004 Casa de Mouraz
- Portugal, Beiras, Dão
This is an organic wine from a blend of Malvasia Fina, Bical
and Cerceal. It has a smoky, sort of extracted, concentrated
nose with raisins and a bit of rubber. Full, round and easy
on the palate, with some suggestions of peach/pear fruit. It
really deepens and fill out towards the finish. This is a
big wine, and, interestingly, with lots of minerality. Very
Good Indeed. (90 pts.)
2004 CARM (Casa
Agrícola Roboredo Madeira) Douro Castello d'Alba Reserva
- Portugal, Douro
A fresh, yet complex nose with a touch of spirit and a touch
of plastic. Interesting palate: fairly rich and concentrated
with some tropical fruit and a bit of oak(?). Very full, but
a bit odd, and it feels a bit confected. (81 pts.)
2005 Luis Pato Maria
Gomes - Portugal, Beiras, Vinho Regional Beiras
A good fresh nose - quite floral. Very good palate, with
nice spice and minerality. A very interesting wine; also
very food friendly. Very Good Indeed. (91 pts.)
2004 Luis Pato Vinho
Regional Beiras Vinhas Velhas (Branco) - Portugal,
Beiras, Vinho Regional Beiras
Barrel fermented, with a high proportion of bical in the
blend. The nose is, like many Portuguese whites, unusual,
though there's some oak on this. This is a curious,
interesting wine, though I'm afraid I don't find it terribly
attractive. Very Good. (86 pts.)
2004 Quinta dos Roques
Encruzado - Portugal, Beiras, Dão
The nose is very much like viognier indeed, and quite
almondy-sweet. Interesting palate, with a bit of an
oxidised/sherrified feel on the finish (though it isn't
either of those). Very Good+ (87 pts.)
2005 Valle Pradinhos
Vinho Regional Trás-os-Montes Branco - Portugal,
Trás-os-Montes, Vinho Regional Trás-os-Montes
A blend of gewurztraminer, riesling and malvasia from the
continental climate of Trás-os-Montes, the area to the north
of the upper Douro.
This has a glorious fragrant nose, without the
gewurztraminer being to obvious. Very attractive floral
palate. Really quite elegant on its own as an aperitif, but
would work really well with many foods, especially Chinese
and Thai, I think. Very Good Indeed+ (92 pts.)
2003 Quinta dos Roques
Touriga Nacional Dão Quinta do Correio - Portugal,
Beiras, Dão
A blend of jaen and touriga nacional, with smaller amounts
of alfrocheiro preto and tinta toriz, fermented in stainless
steel and then matured for 12 months in barriques.
This has a young, fresh fruity nose with lots of black fruit
and a touch of chocolate. Lovely round palate with good
fruit character. Very easy and very nice. Has great balance.
Very Good+ (88 pts.)
2005 Lavradores de
Feitoria Douro - Portugal, Douro
A glorious young purple colour. Young, perfumed blackberry
nose with floral violets. Nice palate: very clean and fresh.
Good structure and very nice balance. A rather nice wine,
with the added advantage of being great fun. (91
pts.)
2003 Quinta dos Roques
- Portugal, Beiras, Dão
Quite a floral nose with a nice scent. Good, round palate.
Very easy drinking, but it also has a nice depth. Very clean
finish. Very Good Indeed. (89 pts.)
2004 Herdade São Miguel
Alentejo Montinho - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
A blend of tempranillo, trincadeira and cabernet sauvignon.
Not a bad nose, though it feels a bit confected with sweet
raspberry fruit. Rather simple on the palate, with lots of
tannin. Seems less successful than the other Portuguese reds
today. (83 pts.)
2004 Herdade São Miguel
Alentejo - Portugal, Alentejano, Alentejo
A fairly classic Alentejan blend, including tempranillo and
trincadeira. This is much more complex on the nose than the
same producer's 2004 Montinho, with good raspberry and
blackberry fruit. Good body, again with lots of tannin.
Needs time. (86 pts.)
2003 Casa de Saima
Bairrada - Portugal, Beiras, Bairrada
Made from old vine baga grapes, trodden and fermented in
lagares, before ageing in 100 year old large barrels. This
has a very elegant nose with cherries and chocolate. Very
elegant on the palate too, with a good tannic structure.
Feels very Barolo like. Very Good Indeed. (91 pts.)
2004 Luis Pato Vinho
Regional Beiras Vinhas Velhas - Portugal, Beiras,
Vinho Regional Beiras
From a single vineyard with the old vines of the label.
There is concentrated and fresh raspberry and cherry fruit
on the nose, which is also quite scented. Very good palate:
there's a nice hint of bittterness, balanced by some ripe
fruit and tannins. Has some of the character of a baby
barolo. Very Good Indeed. (90 pts.)
2004 CARM (Casa
Agrícola Roboredo Madeira) Douro Quinta do Côa -
Portugal, Douro
Produced organically. This has a restrained, portlike nose
with out the power and spirit. Good palate - very Douro, but
with a lightness and elegance uncharacteristic of the Douro.
Huge length. Very Good Indeed+ (93 pts.)
2004 Quinta do
Zambujeiro Vinho Regional Alentejano Monte do Castanheiro
- Portugal, Alentejano, Vinho Regional Alentejano
The pretty standard Alentejano blend of varieties, here 55%
trincadeira, 15% aragonez (aka tempranillo), 15% castelão,
10% alicante bouschet and 5% cabernet sauvignon.
This has an attractive black fruits nose with some raw oak
(30% new barrels apparently). Big palate, but very well
balanced. Very good length with nice grainy tannins on the
finish. Very Good Indeed. (89 pts.)
2002 Niepoort Douro
Vertente - Portugal, Douro
This has a really lovely nose, very typical of the Douro.
Very full on the palate with lots of chewy tannin. No doubt
this is serious stuff. Very Good/Very Good Indeed.
(88 pts.)
2002 Niepoort Douro
Redoma - Portugal, Douro
A very complex, powerful nose with good oak character and
great depth. Very integrated, smooth palate. Long and
smooth. Very distinguished. Very Good Indeed+. (93
pts.)
N.V. Bodegas Tradición
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Oloroso Muy Viejo - Spain,
Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
From Domecq's 18th century solera blended with Gilbey's 19th
centruy soleras. This is designated as a VORS with 30 years
of age, though they say it's 39 years old. It has a
beautiful nutty, complex nose with a very savoury note. A
bit spirity on the palate, though the overall impression is
that it's very savoury - almost a parmesan-umami-like
savouriness. Very concentrated too. Impressive stuff. (90 pts.)
N.V. Bodegas Tradición
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Amontillado Muy Viejo - Spain,
Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
The solera for the Bodegas Tradicion Amontillado goes back
to the 19th century solera of Gilbey, Bobadilla, Osborne and
Delgado-Zuleta. Classified as a 30-year old VORS, the Bodega
puts an age of 37 years on this. Quite a gentle nose with a
lovely purity. Pure and really quite fresh on the palate.
Very concentrated. Very clean. Very delicious. Excellent.
(95 pts.)
N.V. Bodegas Tradición
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Palo Cortado Muy Viejo - Spain,
Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
This fabulous VORS palo cortado originates in 19th century
Domecq solera and Croft harvests of 1970 and 1982.
Immediately on the nose, you can tell this is something
special: it has a lovely purity, with sweet caramelly
almonds and pine kernels (though no caramel is added in the
production). A really superb palate. Huge balance.
Breathtakingly impressive. Excellent. (96 pts.)
N.V. Bodegas Tradición
Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Pedro Ximénez Muy Viejo - Spain,
Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
This is classified as a VOS with at least 20 years of age
and originates in Sandeman soleras from the 19th century and
Harvey's soleras. Naturally, as ever with PX, this looks
like thick heavy engine oil, though it doesn't have the
greenish tinge that some have. Liquid raisins, of course,
but also some roasted coffee notes. This is a really
excellent example of a PX: very balanced and nowhere near as
sticky, sickly cloying as some examples can be. (94
pts.)
1996 Barbeito Madeira
Single Harvest - Portugal, Madeira
A nuttier nose than Barbeito's Veramar, with hints of maple
syrup, though there's a much dryer feel overall. Very good
on the palate with huge elegance and blanace. Superb stuff.
Lovely balancing acidity. Excellent. (95 pts.)
N.V. Barbeito Madeira
Boal Reserve Veramar - Portugal, Madeira
A lovely, winning nose with marzipan and cherry kernels.
There's a medium-sweet richness on the palate. Easy and
quite refreshing. A really lovely drink. Excellent. (95 pts.)
1994 Barbeito Madeira
Malvazia Single Cask Colheita - Cask 276a - Portugal,
Madeira
The "a" apparently refers to the warehouse, and "a" is
Barbeito's coastal warehouse where this finished its
maturation. A really good, complex nose with hints of
vieille prune. Super palate. Very balanced, with a lovely
acidity. Very pure and clean. Massive length. Excellent.
(96 pts.)
N.V. Niepoort Porto Dry
White - Portugal, Douro, Porto
A remarkably attractive nose for a white port! Quite raisiny
on the attack. Most unusually for a white port, this is not
a bad drink on its own - quite orangey and nutty; and would
work well with terrines and maybe non-fresh-fruit desserts.
(85 pts.)
N.V. Niepoort Porto
Senior Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Almost a Tavel rosé colour, rather than a tawny. Quite a
sweet nose with red fruits - stewed strawberries. This is a
remarkably wine-like tawny, until the spirit comes along on
the finish to remind you it is port. A delicate,
fresh, fruity wine. Rather impressive. (89 pts.)
N.V. Niepoort Porto
Junior Tawny - Portugal, Douro, Porto
A very unusual nose - quite green in character. Much more
evidently port on the palate than it was on the nose. Very
restrained, but this is sweeter and fuller and much less
charming than the Senior Tawny. (84 pts.)
2001 Niepoort Porto
Late Bottled Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto
Elegant black fruits and concentrated violets on the nose,
with a hint of bitter chocolate. Attractive palate with
great depth. Decent complexity. A very controlled,
self-assured port. Very balanced. Very Good Indeed. (90 pts.)
Wine Traders (UK) Ltd Who brought a range of interesting Italian wines.
2005 La Parrina
Ansonica Costa dell'Argentario - Italy, Tuscany,
Maremma, Costa dell'Argentario
A fragrant, fresh nose. Light, clean palate. Decent
character on the finish. Very good length and character
after. Very Good Indeed. (89 pts.)
2005 Fattoria Nicodemi
Trebbiano d'Abruzzo - Italy, Abruzzi, Trebbiano
d'Abruzzo
A light, gently perfumed nose. A gentle, easy palate with
nice depth. Very Good Indeed. (89 pts.)
2005 Terre di Talamo
Maremma Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Maremma,
Maremma Toscana IGT
A rounded, rather dulled nose. Fairly powerful palate.
Decent depth. I find this a bit blowsy. Very Good.
(86 pts.)
2005 Inama Soave
Classico Superiore Vulcaia - Italy, Veneto, Soave
Classico
A rather closed nose, with some asparagus notes. Crisp,
clean palate with good depth. Very Good Indeed. (89
pts.)
2004 Inama Soave
Classico Vigneti di Foscarino - Italy, Veneto, Soave
Classico
Barrel fermented in old oak and bottled unfined and
unfiltered. This has a lovely round palate: full an
dcomplex, yet also very clean. Very impressive stuff. Very
Good Indeed+. (92 pts.)
2005 Terre di Talamo
Piano Piano Maremma Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany,
Maremma, Maremma Toscana IGT
A lovely bright pink colour. Lots of strawberry fruit on the
nose. You wouldn't guess this was sangiovese without a lot
of prompting. Nice and crisp and clean. Good balance and
with decent depth and character. (89 pts.)
2004 La Parrina
- Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Parrina
100% Sangiovese.
Warm cherry fruits nose. Quite austere on the palate. Very
fine and elegant, with a lovely cherry kernel finish. Very
Good Indeed. (91 pts.)
2003 Pecchenino
Dolcetto di Dogliani Siri D'Jermu - Italy, Piedmont,
Langhe, Dolcetto di Dogliani
A warm, sweet raspberry nose. Very nice palate. Quite fruit
driven and in really quite a modern style. Rather austere
finish. Very Good/Very Good Indeed. (88 pts.)
2004 Terre di Talamo
Morellino di Scansano Tempo Terre di Talamo - Italy,
Tuscany, Maremma, Morellino di Scansano
This has a gorgeous nose. Lovely elegant fruit on the palate
too. Very clean. Big grainy tannins on the finish and after.
Very Good Indeed. (91 pts.)
2003 Castello di Bossi
Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti
Classico
A lvoely cherry kernel nose - sweet and perfumed. Very good,
light palate with some lovely fresh notes. Fairly simple.
Very Good+ (87 pts.)
2001 La Parrina Parrina
Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Maremma, Parrina
This has an utterly beautiful nose with sweet strawberry and
cherry fruit. On the palate, there is ripe, fresh fruit
backed up by lots of oaky tannins. This is serious stuff and
needs time. Very Good Indeed. (90 pts.)
2002 Palari Rosso del
Soprano Sicilia IGT - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia IGT
A smoky mulberry nose - very earthy and very forest floor.
Light and perfumed on the palate with a gentle tannic
structure. Very Good Indeed+. (93 pts.)
2001 Palari Faro Rosso
- Italy, Sicily, Faro
A blend of nerello and a host of other indigenous Sicilian
grapes. There's hedgerow and black fruit on the nose. Very
smooth palate. Very fresh and clean. Very Good Indeed. (89 pts.)
2003 Inama Bradisismo
Veneto IGT - Italy, Veneto, Veneto IGT
Cabernet Sauvignon 70 % : Carmenère 20 % : Merlot 10 % from
the Colli Berici near Vicenza.
This has a lovely nose - concentracted blackcurrant and
blackberry with a hint of dusty sawdust. Very rounded and
balanced on the palate with a lovely tannic structure. Very
pure finish. Great length. Very Good Indeed. (92
pts.)
2001 Castello di Bossi
Corbaia Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
65% sangiovese; 35% cabernet sauvignon.
A rather stinky black fruit nose. Good, very concentrated
palate. Very concentrated with good structure, but doesn't
really do it for me. Very Good. (87 pts.)
2000 Castello di Bossi
Girolamo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
100% merlot. Round plummy fruit on the nose with a nice
perfume. Very good on the palate: a nice fresh attack is
followed up by ripe, plummy black fruit. Very significant
detract a bit on the finish. (88 pts.)
2002 Fattoria La
Valentina Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Binomio - Italy,
Abruzzi, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Binomio is the result of a collaboration between Stefano
Inama from the Azienda Agricola Inama in the Veneto and
Sabatino di Properzio from Fattoria la Valentina, their
intention being to allow old vine Montepulciano to show the
greatness that it can achieve. The Binomio vineyard (which
they bought in 1999) had been planted with the low-yielding
Africa clone in 1971. The grapes undergo a very strict
selection: apparently in 2002 more than half the grapes were
discarded!
This has a big, sweet, gamey nose that's hugely attractive.
Fairly light and fresh on the palate, though it also manages
to be a bit hot and spicy on the finish. (89 pts.)
2004 Graziano Lambrusco
Modena IGT Fontana dei Boschi - Italy,
Emilia-Romagna, Modena IGT
A pretty stinky black fruit nose. Powerful black fruit on
the palate. Very clean yet also very big. I get the feeling
this really needs meat; red meat. (86 pts.)
2005 Boroli Moscato
d'Asti Aureum - Italy, Piedmont, Asti, Moscato d'Asti
A gorgeous fresh, muscatty nose. Light, fresh, clean. Very
good balance. An excellent example of a moscato d'asti.
(91 pts.)
2003 Inama Vulcaia
Après Vino Dolce - Italy, Veneto
12%, 375ml
Late harvest sauvignon blanc, aged for nine months in acacia
barrels.
A medium orange gold. A fairly rich nose with some fresh
marmalade notes. Good fresh palate with a nice light sweet
richness and some lightly caramelised orange flavours.
Really good balance with very precise, clear, clean
flavours. Lacks the opulence and decadence of richer sweet
wines. Not at all cloying and leaves the mouth nicely
refreshed. Really good restraint. Very Good Indeed. (91 pts.)
Eclectic Wines It is
only fair to point out that I tasted the Eclectic Wines range
towards the end of the day, when a number of bottles were nearly
empty and Mary Pateras and her husband were needing to set off
on a long drive for the London arm of the PIG tasting. It was
not possible to give all the wines the full consideration they
deserved. Hence the brevity of the notes.
2005 Hatzidakis Aidani
Assyrtiko - Greece, Aegean, Santorini
This is a blend of 25% aidani and 75% assyrtiko, produced
organically, and sees no oak. Around 2,000-3,000 bottles are
produced each year (the Hatzidakis winery's total production
is only 70,000 750ml bottles a year). The label was
"designed" by the Hatzidakis' young children.
The nose is very full and fruity, if a little muddy and
unfocussed. Decent palate. Quite complex, just a bit
confused on the palate. Very Good. (88 pts.)
2005 Hatzidakis
Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Santorini
A blend of 90% Assyrtiko, 5% Aidani, and 5% Athiri. Unoaked.
This has a lovely fresh, clean nose - bright and fragrant
and very attractive. Really pleasant palate with good fruit,
balance and character. This is lovely stuff. Very Good
Indeed. (91 pts.)
2005 Hatzidakis Barrel
Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Santorini
This is 100% assyrtiko and, as the name suggests, aged in
oak for between nine and twelve months.
This has a very good nose with the wood coming through but
by no means dominating. The palate is excellent. Very
similar to Hatzidakis' unoaked Santorini, but with extra
complexity. It's taken the oak very well. (94 pts.)
2004 Hatzidakis Nykteri
Santorini - Greece, Aegean, Santorini
100% Assyrtiko, late harvested when very mature. The grapes
are harvested in the early morning and then pressed that
night. Half of the wine is aged in second use oak for six
months, half in stainless steel. It has quite a perfumed
nose. Lovely smooth, rich palate. Round and full. Very Good
Indeed. (91 pts.)
2006 Finca Sophenia
Sauvignon Blanc Altosur - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle
de Uco, Tupungato
A very hard green beans nose. Decent palate; fairly rounded.
Scarcely impressive though. Good. (82 pts.)
2004 Vignoble Guillaume
Vin de Pays de Franche-Comté - France, Franche-Comté,
Vin de Pays de Franche-Comté
A rich buttery nose. Rich and full on the palate, delivering
all a basic chardonnay should and more. (90 pts.)
2005 Finca Sophenia
Malbec Altosur - Argentina, Mendoza, Valle de Uco,
Tupungato
A lovely perfumed nose with powerful black fruit. Sweet and
pure on the palate. Very Good Indeed-. (89 pts.)
2005 Domaine Evharis
Ilaros - Greece, Attica
This is a blend of 60 Agiorgitiko and 40% grenache rouge.
Good ruby colour. A bit stinky on the nose, but there's
still some good fruit. Good palate, with nice clean, pure
flavours. Very Good+ (88 pts.)
2003 Megapanos Winery
Nemea - Greece, Peloponnisos, Nemea
The grapes are destemmed and then fermented in stainless
steel for 6-10 days. The wine is then clarified and
stablised with gelatine and then matured in Greek oak for a
year. The wine is filtered before bottling and matured in
bottle for another year before release.
A bittersweet cherry kernel nose. Full and pure on the
palate with a nice bitterness on the finish. (86
pts.)
2004 Domaine Vassiliou
Nemea - Greece, Peloponnisos, Nemea
There's cherry-raspberry fruit on the nose, but the palate
doesn't live up to the nose at all. It has a pinotage like
rubbery bitterness to it that I find rather unappealing.
(78 pts.)
2005 Domaine Vassiliou
Erythros - Greece, Attica
A blend of Agiorgitiko and cabernet sauvignon, fermented in
temperature controlled stainless steel and then matured in
new French oak for 14 months.
This has an attractive red fruits nose with a nice perfume.
Zingy and fresh on the palate with very forward young fruit.
Not sure what to make of this. (85 pts.)
2005 Vignoble Guillaume
Pinot Noir Vin de Pays de Franche-Comté - France,
Franche-Comté, Vin de Pays de Franche-Comté
The Guillaumes are renowned for their vine nursery,
supplying great names such as Romanée Conti and Sassicaia
with new vines. They also make wine.
This pinot noir has lovely warm strawberry-cherry fruit on
the nose with a nice earthiness. Lovely palate, delivering
all the nose promised. Very Good Indeed. (90 pts.)
2005 Vignoble Guillaume
Pinot Noir Vin de Pays de Franche-Comté Vieilles Vignes
- France, Franche-Comté, Vin de Pays de Franche-Comté
Light cherry and red fruit on the nose. Very pleasant
indeed. (89 pts.)