Various German Rieslings, mainly from the Mosel

supplied by French & Logan

Having finally rediscovered the notebook, I can at last post these notes on a mixed case (my selection) of wines I got from the enthusiastic riesling specialists French & Logan.

I had a marked preference for the wines of Kurt Hain over those of Kees-Kieren: I think this is down to more than just the terroir of the Piesporter Goldtröpfchen and the Graacher Himmelreich vineyards, as normally I prefer wines from Graach to those from Piesport. Not entirely what it is down to though. Re-reading the notes, I was impressed by the consistency of the Hain wines too, and by way of example I have included a note on a second bottle of the 2001 Kab below. Though the most remarkable thing about the wines was the QPR: the Hain Kabinetts were only £4.95 a bottle when I got them. The Kees-Kieren wines were very fairly priced too, for anyone who fancies giving them a go to see if I was right to be rather less thrilled by them than by Kurt Hain.

2001 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett , Kurt Hain, Mosel, 8% (AP Nr. 2 596 432 8 02)
Very pale greenish straw. Fragrant, slatey nose. Excellent, fresh attack. Nice, elegant richness and creaminess. Light, fresh, round and elegant with a nice acidity. I find it more straightforward with less of the sherbetty-ness of the 2002. Very Good Indeed.

2002 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett, Kurt Hain, Mosel, 8% (AP Nr. 2 596 432 8 03)
Bright pale gold with green tinges on the rim. Bright, vibrant citrussy sherbetty, very crisp apples. Very good attack. Clean and immediately attractive with a pleasing roundness. Then the acid starts to cut in, giving it a real vibrant edge. Gorgeous stuff. Excellent length, and clean and crisp after. Excellent.

2002 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett, Kurt Hain, Mosel, 8% (AP Nr. 2 596 432 8 03)
Pale, green-tinged straw. Fantastic fresh, vibrant nose - slightly sherbetty. Very vibrant attack - zinging fresh fruit with good acidity. Excellent body. A rich Riesling slightly oily palate with more than a hint of honey. Very Good Indeed.

2001 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Spätlese , Kurt Hain, Mosel, 8% (AP Nr. 2 596 432 13 02)
A pale goldy straw with green at the rim. Mineral nose with wax and slate, but a bit subdued really. Superb attack. Gosh, this is good! Fresh, huge fruit and heft acid initially. Nice weight with a hint of sweetness. Very good acidity - all nicely balanced, and not a too searing acidity. Very Good Indeed.

2001 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Auslese, Kurt Hain, Mosel, 8% (AP Nr. 2 596 432 15 02)
Pale green with light lemon yellow highlights. Honey baked apple nose, but a little closed. Big fruit, round, full attack. Very clean with very good acidity. Lovely weight in the mouth. Inordinately more-ish. Very Good Indeed.

2001 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Beerenauslese, Kurt Hain, Mosel, 8.5% (AP Nr. 2 596 432 20 02)
A bright mid gold. Lovely nose: a touch of apples, lots of honey with a waxy herbal perfume with some very gentle lavender notes. Acid and pure fruit on the attack. Then it fills to a luscious richness, yet still cut by a fine acidity. Sweet, haunting body and length with a crisp after. Very Good Indeed.
A couple of days later:
Mid gold. Lots of honey on the nose, but very elegant, with caramelised apples and pears and a bit of lavender. Lovely balance on the palate, initially with lots of fresh, sweet fruit. Very good acidity keeps it in excellent balance. Very clean and fresh with a certain crispness on the finish. Very Good Indeed.

2001 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Kees-Kieren, Mosel, 8.5%, (AP Nr. 2 583 092 16 02)
Medium gold. Slightly oxidised petrol nose with beeswax, but no fruit. Acid on attack, followed by rich fruit and honey. Rather flat on the middle. Good length with acid after. Good-ish.

2002 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett, Kees-Kieren, Mosel, 8%, (AP Nr. 2 583 092 14 03)
Greenish lemon gold. Subdued citrussy, creamy apples. Very fresh, clean, crisp palate with good fruit and acidity. Nice clean finish. Very Good.

2002 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese , Kees-Kieren, Mosel, (AP Nr. 2 583 092 12 03)
Very bright, clear green-tinged pale gold. Very scented nose with light honey, waxy creaminess. High acidity immediately apparent on the palate. Rather reticent fruit. Very light structure and body. Crisp with an odd confected finish. I don't like this wine, though I don't think it's off. Fair.

2001 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese **, Kees-Kieren, Mosel, 8% (AP Nr. 2 583 092 20 02)
Pale gold with a green tinge showing at the edge. Very light nose indeed with a certain grape-syrup note to it. Quite buttery too, and really a little odd. But it comes through as clearly Riesling with a strong waxy note, underpinned by honey. Quite full on the attack with some acid very noticeable on the tongue. Round and rich, yet quite elegant and structured. A bit of sweetness on the middle, but also some acid. But I find the acid rather discrete and not knitted into the structure of the wine: I feel this makes the wine seem a little disjointed and lacking structure. Good length. Good.

2001 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Beerenauslese, Kees-Kieren, Mosel, (AP Nr. 2 583 092 28 02)
A remarkably light colour - light to mid gold. Rather humble nose. Creamy, honeyed beeswax. Excellent, fruit-driven attack. Fills hugely. Sweet and quite luscious, but also very elegant on the palate. Quite intense, concentrated Riesling fruit and honey on the palate. Immense length. Excellent.

2001 Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling Spätlese ***, J & HA Strub, 8% (AP Nr. 2 596 432 8 03)
Medium straw. Rich, peachy, minerally nose. Good fruit on attack with pleasing sweetness. Nice depth with an interesting character. Slightly loses something on the middle, but finishes well enough with good length. Good/Very Good.

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Last updated: 15 December 2005