Ray Abercromby Wine Dinner

Establishment Restaurant, Manchester

1st March 2005


1998 Pirie, Tasmania
Full and rich on the nose: quite biscuitty with some peach kernels.  Full and round with a good gentle mousse on the palate.  Quite a fruity style.  Very Good.

2003 Riesling, Mitchell Watervale, Clare Valley, Australia
A waxy, citrussy nose thatís slightly oiled and has a touch of sherbert too.  Bright and clean on the attack.  Very nice weight.  Very good length. 
Develops a real citrussy note on the finish.  Very Good.

?? Viognier
A lovely perfumed nose.  Very, very full and really quite overripe and over-bearing.  Rich and very lingering on the finish.  But the overall impression is of a wine with an excess of weight and body without any real backbone behind it.  It was interesting to try the wine with a bit of salt, which helped balance the wine: I think it would be a good wine for smoked salmon.  Good. 

1975 Ch. Magdelaine en magnum
This is not a wine that looks the thirty years old that it is.  The nose is dominated by leather with blackberry and a hint of leafiness.  On the attack this is immediately showing all signs of a mature, old claret: very immediate sweet fruit with an underbelly of softened tannins, giving the impression of a rounded, soft, suede-textured wine.  Very Good Indeed.

2001 Pinot Noir, Bannockburn, decanted around two hours earlier.
A really good burgundian pinot noir nose with lots of medicinal notes, especially cloves: thereís definitely an air of dentistís surgery about this.  Another glass from another bottle wasnít quite as medicinal, but rather was a touch bretty-stinky.  Eventually, the medicinal notes start to blow off a touch, and thereís more burgundian fruit coming through on the nose.  A really lovely attack: ripe, clean, fresh fruit.  Really concentrated and a lovely wine.  Excellent balance followed by massive length.  With more time, itís evolving all the time in the glass, taking on smoky/tobacco notes after a while.  But the paracetamol and oil of cloves mixture never quite goes away.  This is a stunning wine: very interesting indeed.  Excellent.

1998 Clos de Bourg, MoŽlleux, HuŽt
Quite an interesting nose, if a bit closed.  Slight stinkiness too, which blows off to reveal several layers of honey.  Very fresh on the attack and then with a good weight of restrained fruit on the palate.  Rather high acidity.  And a bit unbalanced overall.  Far, far too young: in Loire and HuŽt terms, this is still suffering shock from bottling.  Good.

Not included in the above, but drunk later that night:
1983 Cabernet Boschť (Cabernet Sauvignon), Freemark Abbey, Napa Valley, 12.9%
Initially rather stinky, but that blows off.  Quite a concentrated sweet black fruit nose.  Remarkable freshness on the attack.  Sweet fruit on the palate, with grainy tannins.  Very dry on the finish.  Very long, but not over-attractive (long) after.


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Last updated: 17 March 2006