Trentino’s
Top Wines
27 February 2007
Royal Opera House,
Trentino
lies in northern
The DOC
Trento, centred on the city of
2001 Brut
Riserva Cuvée
dell’Abate, DOC Trento, Abate Nero
This is a blend of 80% chardonnay and 20% pinot noir (with a hint of
pinot
bianco in there as well), and the resulting wine spends 14 months on
its lees.
It was quite foamy when poured, but in the glass there’s
remarkably little in
the way of bubbles. It
has a fresh,
lemony nose. The
palate has crisp,
fresh, clean flavours. Overall,
it’s
largely innocuous. 81/100
2000 Brut
Riserva, DOC
80% chardonnay : 20% pinot noir. This
has quite a peachy nose with some citrus notes.
Very precise palate initially, but a bit hollow on the
middle and the
finish. 82/100
2003
Barbanico, IGT Vallagarina,
Azienda Agricola Balter
60% lagrein, 20% merlot, 20% cabernet sauvignon, aged for 13 months in
barriques. A
bizarre nose, felling a bit
cheap and confected with a real green oak tinge.
Attractive, pleasant palate with several
layers of flavours. There
is some
interest here. Very
Good. 87/100
2001
Tridentum Millesimato, DOC
80% chardonnay: 20% pinot noir; the chardonnay is fermented in oak. This has a very, very soft
nose: very
muted. Very prickly
on the palate with
quite high acidity. Very
fresh and
light. 83/100
NV Brut, DOC
Trento, Conti
Wallenburg
60% chardonnay : 40% pinot noir. There’s
lots of crisp pear fruit on the nose, and interestingly the pear fruit
carries
through onto the palate, the fruit fighting its way past the crisp
acidity. Good. 83/100
2004
Marquardo, IGT Vigneti delle
Dolomiti, Conti Wallenburg
50% teroldego, 25% lagrein, 25% cabernet, aged for 12 months in small
oak
barrels. A fairly
attractive nose, with
something a bit different to it: there’s some blackberry, red
apple and
beetroot, with a nice-ish perfume.
Very
rich, silky attack. Very
clean and
focussed with a nice balance. The
oaking
is evident on the finish, but more in flavour, as there
aren’t any oaky
tannins. Very Good. 87
NV Maximum
Brut, DOC Trento,
Ferrari F.lli Lunelli
100% chardonnay, aged for three years on its lees.
A very foamy appearance.
There are some very marked water biscuits on
the nose. A good,
fairly full palate
with a real creamy feel. Quite
easy. A touch
sweeter than many of the
other Trentino fizzes. Very
Good+. 88/100
NV
Rosé, DOC
Quite a deep salmon-orange colour.
Pronounced red fruit nose.
Nice
focussed palate with very good balance.
Very good length. Very
Good
Indeed. 89/100
1997 Giulio
Ferrari Riserva del
Fondatore, DOC
A big leesy, cheesy nose. Full,
very
creamy palate, but there’s no real depth or character to it:
there’s nothing
behind the creamy lees to make it especially interesting. Good.
84/100
NV Segnana
Chardonnay Trentino
Grappa, F.lli Lunellli
A lovely peachy nose. Very
smooth
palate. Nice,
clean, with only some fire
right at the end.
NV Segnana
Solera Trentino Grappa,
F.lli Lunelli
50% chardonnay, 50% red pomace (merlot and cabernet), aged in a solera. Very nice nose, though
quite cognac
like. Very, very
smooth initially, this
has a gentle richness. Less
direct and
with more forward grapey fruit than often, and it’s also less
lamp oily. More
rounded and in a more French brandy
style than many grappas.
2002 Mach
Riserva del Fondatore,
DOC
60% chardonnay : 40% pinot noir. A
light, zesty, fragrant nose. Very
light
palate. Elegant and
fresh but a bit
dull. 85/100
2004 Rosso
Monastero, DOC
Trentino, Istituto Agrario San Michele All’Adige
100% cabernet franc. There
are elegant
black fruits on the nose with some chocolate and apricot kernels. Good palate with nice
poise initially,
followed up by good ripe fruit and a nice fine-grained tannic texture
on the
finish. Very Good+. 88/100
NV Schiava,
Trentino Grappa,
Istituto Agrario San Michele All’Adige
Quite a straightforward grappa nose.
Oily palate. Not
overly
impressive. This
seems quite industrial
in style. 79/100
1998 Riserva
del fondatore 976,
DOC Trento, Letrari,
12%
This is a blend of chardonnay and pinot noir, aged for at least 90
months on
its lees. It has a
nice peachy-leesy
nose. Quite a
complex palate. It
has nice, restrained fruit with a crisp
biscuitty, yet also creamy feel. Very
interesting. 93/100
2003 Moscato
Rosa, DOC Trentino,
Letrari, 500ml,
14.5%
The nose has sweet, fragrant red fruit and old English roses. On the palate,
it’s less sweet than I would
have thought. It
has a really nice
floral elegance on the palate. This
would
be lovely with a roast plum or marinated cherry dessert. Very Good Indeed+. 93/100
2001 Brut
Talento, DOC Trento,
Madonna delle Vittorie
A blend of 80% chardonnay, 10% pinot blanc and 10% pinot noir. Quite a raw, yeasty nose
behind some stone
fruit. Fairly crisp
palate. Decent, but
very dull. Ok/Good.
80/100
2004 Bianco
di Castelnuovo, IGT
Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Castel Noarna, 13%
This is a blend of riesling, traminer, chardonnay and sauvignon: each
variety
is vinified separately and partly oak aged.
It has quite a subtle nose, but also rather interesting
with some rich
peachy notes. Very
good palate: very attractive
and beautifully balanced. Quite
full and
creamy, but with real character and depth behind.
Very persistent in the mouth.
Very Good Indeed. 92/100
2005
Müller Thurgau, DOC Trentino,
Bolognani
Quite a big open, expressive nose with some creamy appley peas. Full palate, but
it’s distinctly
unimpressive, lacking character and interest, and really very flat. OK.
78/100
2003
Gabàn, IGT Vigneti delle
Dolomiti, Bolognani
This is a cabernet-merlot blend. It
has
a big, oaky, quite dirty nose with loads of tobacco.
Simple palate. Massive
tannins. OK/Good.
80/100
2005 Ritratto
Bianco, IGT Vigneti
delle Dolomiti, Cantina La
A chardonnay-pinot grigio blend. It
has
an interesting, buttery nose. Very
good
palate with nice depths. Good
fruit and
balance. Very good
length. Very Good
Indeed. 89/100
2005 Maso
Roncador, Müller Thurgau
DOC Trentino, Cantina La
A nice elegant perfumed nose. Really
good palate. Very expressive and focussed with super balance. Really nice flavours with
good fruit: some
ripe stone fruit and some green fruit.
Very Good Indeed. 90/100
2004 Ritratto
Rosso, IGT Vigneti
delle Dolomiti, Cantina La
This is a blend of teroldego and lagrein.
It has quite a funky banyard nose with a bit of a
mushroomy sous-bois
tinge. Nice,
attractive palate with some
fairly fresh fruit, but also a nice structure and a certain leafiness. 88/100
2004
Chardonnay Maso Toresella,
DOC Trentino Superiore, Cavit
A massive sweet buttery, oaky nose with a spirity edge.
The palate is full and food-friendly
palate. A bit
monstrous. This is
very good, but in a pretty
international, dull style. 86/100
2005
Marzemino Vaioni, DOC
Trentino Superiore, Cavit
This 100% marzemino has sweetish black bruit, cherry, and a hint of
violets on
the nose. There’s
red, ripe fruit on the
palate with a chocolately richness, but there’s a lovely
balance too and very
nice freshness on the finish. Very
Good
Indeed/Excellent. 94/100
2003 4V
Quattro Vicariati Rosso,
DOC Trentino, Cavit
This is a blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc with 30%
merlot. It has
black fruits on a dusty
oak nose. Nicely
balanced palate. It
has an sort of red fresh elegance.
Big finish with lots of tannins evident
after. Very
Good/Very Good Indeed. 88/100
2005 Castel
Firmian Müller
Thurgau, DOC Trentino, Mezzacorona
This has a gently floral nose. Light,
yet interesting on the palate. This
actually feels like an English wine.
Good. 84/10
2001 NOS
Riserva, DOC Teroldego Rotaliano,
Mezzacorona
There are smoky perfumed black fruits on the rather undistinguished
nose. Much petter
on the palate: it has great
elegance and poise with nicely precise fruit.
Good structure and balance.
Very
Good Indeed. 89/100
2005 Pinot
Bianco Pergole, DOC
Trentino, Azienda Agricola Longariva
A rich buttery nose with some caramelised peas.
Light, creamy palate with some some interest. Good rich fruit, but a
nice balance. Very
Good+.
87/100
2002 Marognon
Cabernet Sauvignon
Riserva, DOC Trentino, Azienda Agricola Longariva
There’s huge oak on the nose, completely dominating the nose
and feeling really
overdone. On the
palate, it’s
immediately attractive. But
it’s very
superficial and really, it’s just a big fruit bomb. There are some interesting
flavours in there,
especially on the finish, but it’s so overdone on the oak and
very forward
fruit, that it has little attraction.
82/100
2004
l'Òra, IGT Vigneti delle
Dolomiti, Pravis
Made from 100% nosiola, part of which is dried.
It has a nutty, perfumed nose.
Lovely palate: rich yet very complex and layered. Huge length.
90/100
2002
Fratagranda, IGT Vigneti
delle Dolomiti, Pravis
This is a blend of 60% cabernet sauvignon, 30% cabernet franc and 10%
merlot,
aged for 12 months in barrique, followed by 12 months in bottle. It has a nicely poised
nose with some
concentrated black fruit. On
the palate,
it’s very good with quite ripe fruit with a sort of warming
spice
throughout. Very
rounded with decent
balance. Very Good
Indeed. 91/100
1997
Arèle, DOC Trentino Vino
Santo, Pravis
This is a 100% nosiola, aged for nine years in barriques. It has a very delicate,
sweet, almondy
nose. Sweetish and
fairly direct
palate. Undoubtedly
moreish, but it’s a
bit sticky and ultimately a touch simple.
88/100
2005
Sortì, IGT Vigneti delle
Dolomiti, Zeni
This is a blend of 85% pinot bianco, 10% Riesling and 5% sauvignon,
which is
aged for just one month in small barriques.
It has a very elegant nose with some pear and peach fruit
and a hint of
asparagus. There’s
quite a sweet
impression in the mouth initially, with very rich fruit. Then some acidity becomes
noticeable, which
really dries it out. Very
long and
persistent. Very
Good Indeed. 92/100
2003 Pini,
DOC Teroldego Rotaliano,
Zeni
A floral, perfumed blackberry nose , and quite warm catty too. Very attractive on the
palate with a good
combination of flavours. Very
open, with
a lovely balance of flavours. Very
Good
Indeed/Excellent. 94/100
2003 Pivier
IGT Vigneti delle
Dolomiti, Cesconi
This is a 100% merlot, aged for a year in barriques.
It has weedy black fruit on the nose – very
weedy and green. Fairly
full on the
palate, but it’s pretty simple.
Very
unimpressive. 79/100
2004 Sangue
di Drago, DOC
Teroldego Rotaliano, Marco Donati
A really perfumed nose with some restrained black and red fruit behind. Very soft palate, feeling
very well
integrated. Very
precise and
focussed. It just
feels luxurious and
well made. Really
delicious. Excellent.
96/100
2003 Gran
Masetto, IGT Vigneti
delle Dolomiti, Endrizzi
100% teroldego, apparently made use amarone techniques.
A very perfumed chocolatey, slightly raisined
nose. Big, full,
palate, but it has a
fair balance. Nice
sweet fruit on the
finish and good length. Different,
and I
quite like it. 90/100
2004 Due
Vigneti, DOC Teroldego Rotaliano,
Fedrizzi Cipriano
A rich and perfumed nose, but it feels a touch overdone. Rather odd palate. Very doughnutty: a fair
attack and a very
good finish, but there’s a big hole in the middle. 82/100
2004 Mezum,
DOC Teroldego
Rotaliano, Azienda Agricola Redondèl
A very intense, glass-coating appearance.
Powerful, intense nose with big, gently perfumed, slightly
minerally
blackberry and cherry fruit. Very
attractive palate: this is a rich, velvety-textured wine with deep red
fruit
flavours and a black cherry finish.
Very
Good Indeed+. 93/100
2004 Syrah,
IGT Vallagarina,
Azienda Agricola Vallarom
A smoky nose
with
sweet black fruit and a touch of face cream.
On the palate there is direct, precise, syrah fruit. Overall, it has quite a
simple feel. Very
focussed. Lightish
syrah and really just a bit
simple. 86/100
2003 7
Pergole, DOC Teroldego
Rotaliano, Villa Corniole
Quite a perfumed red and black cherry nose.
Initially there’s quite sweet fruit on the
palate. It’s
quite caressing in the mouth, then it
explodes with vibrancy and ends up feeling not entirely in balance. 80/100
2003
Gregioti, DOC Trentino, Villa
Corniole
100% cabernet sauvignon. This
has
sweetish black fruit on the nose with a touch of vanilla oak. There are some sweetish
cassis flavours on
the palate, but then there’s a lean elegance which ends with
a green
spice-tannic note on the finish. Very
Good. 86/100
2005 Vigna
Fornás, DOC Trentino,
Vivallis, 11.5%
There are cherry, chocolate and mûre notes on the nose. Very good palate: soft and
easy but with a
really nice character. Lovely
finish. 90/100
2005
Marzemino dei Ziresi, DOC
Trentino Superiore, Vivallis, 12.5%
From older vines that the Vigna Fornás.
This has a rather closed nose, but you can sense some
elegant red and
black fruit and maybe some chocolatey prunes.
Very young on the palate.
Very
focussed and deep and concentrated.
Pretty impressive, but it needs 5+ years.
Very Good Indeed+. 94/100
1995 Vino
Santo, DOC Trentino,
Fratelli Pisoni
There are sweet almonds on the nose, but with a nice floral elegance. Sweet, but with a nice
purity and
elegance. Quite a
delicate floral
character. 94/100
NV
Stravecchia Grappa Trentino,
Fratelli Pisoni
A light amber colour. Not
the most
impressive of grappas. 82/100
NV Acqua di
Giori, Grappa
Trentino, Giori Distillati Trentini
Made from marzemino and teroldego grapes.
Pretty hideous über-bling packaging.
A really good nose. Rather
fiery
on the palate, which was a bit disappointing after its initial
fruitiness. 85/100
2005
43° Grappa Trentino, Marzadro
Made from seven different varieties, distilled separately. Very attractive nose with
some lovely grapey
character. This has
a really good
character in the mouth. It
has an oily
feeling, but also good fruity flavours with the spirit coming only
right at the
end, and even then it’s well in check.
90/100
2004 Le
Diciotto Lune Trentino
Grappa Stravecchia, Marzadro
The different component varieties are aged in small barrels of four
different
types of wood. It
has a really lovely nose,
very delicately perfumed. Hugely
attractive. Very
smooth on the palate,
with a lovely rich, almost sweet caramelised peach and apricot flavour. But so smooth and delicate
too. Very Good
Indeed. 92/100
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Last updated: 24 January 2008